Vertical Labret Piercings Explained
The vertical labret enters at the base of the lower lip and exits through the top surface, with both ball ends visible on the face and nothing inside the mouth. This guide covers how it differs from a standard labret, pain, healing, the curved-barbell-only jewellery requirement and aftercare.Vertical Labret Piercings Explained
A vertical labret piercing enters at the base of the lower lip near the vermillion border and exits through the top surface of the lip itself. A curved barbell sits through both points, with one ball visible below the lip and one ball visible on top of the lip. Because no part of the jewellery enters the mouth, there is no disc resting against the gums and no bar contacting the backs of the teeth. This is the defining advantage of the vertical labret over a standard labret piercing.
The piercing is anatomy dependent. Your lower lip must have enough tissue thickness to hold the curved barbell comfortably without placing the bar under tension. Fuller lips typically provide better tissue support for a vertical labret. Very thin lips may not have enough pierceable tissue for the placement to remain stable long-term. Your piercer will assess lip thickness and the natural pout shape of your lower lip before proceeding.
Unlike most lip piercings that can be hidden with a retainer, a vertical labret is entirely on the face with no inside-the-mouth component to tuck away. Both ball ends are visible. There is no retainer option that makes this piercing invisible. If workplace appearance policies cover facial piercings, a smaller and more subtle curved barbell with low-profile ball ends is the minimum-visibility option.
Vertical Labret vs Standard Labret
Does a Vertical Labret Piercing Hurt?
Most people rate vertical labret pain at 3 to 5 out of 10. The piercing passes through lip tissue rather than skin and the lip is more sensitive than the area below it, so the sensation is slightly sharper than a standard labret. The needle enters from below the lip and exits through the top surface in a single motion. The process takes seconds. Swelling in the first 48 to 72 hours can be more pronounced than with a standard labret because the piercing passes through the full lip tissue depth.
A distinctive challenge of healing a vertical labret is chapping. Because the jewellery sits directly on the lip surface and no lip balm or moisture products can be applied to the healing area, chapped lips can become uncomfortable during healing. Staying well hydrated is the main preventative measure. Do not apply chapstick, lip balm or any waxy product to the lip until the piercing is fully healed.
| Stage | Timeframe | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Inflammatory | Days 1–5 | Lip swelling more pronounced than a standard labret; bar protrudes noticeably; ice and anti-inflammatories help |
| Downsize window | Weeks 2–4 | Replace initial long bar with shorter correctly fitted bar to prevent biting the lower ball end |
| Healing | Weeks 4–8 | Comfortable in daily life; external healing looks complete; internal lip tissue still maturing |
| Full healing | Months 2–3 | Internal tissue matured; can swap ball ends or upgrade to decorative tops with piercer confirmation |
What Jewellery Is Used in a Vertical Labret Piercing?
A curved barbell is the only jewellery type used in a vertical labret piercing at any stage of healing or after full healing. The gentle curve follows the natural shape of the lower lip, keeping both ball ends correctly positioned on the lip surface. A straight barbell does not follow the lip curve and will apply uneven pressure on both exit points. Flat-back labret studs and rings are not suitable for this placement.
| Style | Best For | Size Guide | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Curved barbell (initial) | Fresh and healing | 16G, 10–12mm initially to allow for swelling | Only jewellery type for vertical labret; longer initial bar essential |
| Curved barbell (downsized) | Healing phase | 16G, 8–10mm once swelling resolves | Shorter bar prevents biting the lower ball during eating; critical downsize step |
| Curved barbell with decorative top | Fully healed | 16G, length to anatomy | Gem or shaped upper ball; the top end is most visible and worth upgrading |
| Hoop or ring | Fully healed (some anatomies) | 8–10mm inner diameter | Possible once healed on fuller lips; discuss with your piercer before switching |
Implant-grade titanium throughout healing. The downsize appointment at 2 to 4 weeks is particularly important for the vertical labret because the longer initial bar poses a genuine risk of being bitten during eating once swelling reduces. A correctly fitted shorter bar removes that risk entirely and makes the remaining healing period considerably more comfortable.
For all lip and mouth piercing types including labret, medusa and snake bites, visit the Lip and Mouth Piercing Types Explained guide. For every piercing type in one resource, visit the Piercing Types Explained hub.
Book your vertical labret at OSCO London
Vertical labret piercings at OSCO London are just £10. Lip anatomy assessed before every piercing, implant-grade titanium as standard, full aftercare guidance included.
OSCO London is a professional piercing studio in Northwood, London. Visit the OSCO London homepage to book your vertical labret and have your lip anatomy assessed before your appointment.
How to Care for a Vertical Labret Piercing
Vertical labret aftercare is simpler than a standard labret because there is no inside-the-mouth component to manage. Clean the external piercing site twice daily with sterile saline spray, applying to both the upper and lower exit points. Pat dry with a clean paper towel. This is the entire aftercare routine for the healing period with no mouthwash component required.
Keep all lip products away from the healing piercing throughout the entire healing period. Chapstick, lip balm, lipstick, lip gloss and waxy products can clog the healing fistula and delay healing. Drink plenty of water to manage lip chapping naturally. Do not use straws during healing as the suction movement disturbs the bar.
Avoid spicy and acidic foods in the first two weeks. Avoid kissing and oral contact during healing. Do not bite the lower ball end with your teeth: if the bar is long enough after swelling subsides that you are biting it during eating, book a downsize appointment immediately. Sleeping face-down puts direct pressure on both exit points of the vertical labret and should be avoided until healing is confirmed complete.
For information on every other lip and body piercing type, visit the Piercing Types Explained hub at OSCO London, the complete guide to all piercing placements from lip and mouth piercings through to ear cartilage and body piercings.